17 Questions Smart Las Vegas Homeowners Ask Before Buying a New HVAC System

Why These 17 Questions Exist

I am the co-CEO and CFO of The Cooling Company. I have sat across kitchen tables from thousands of Las Vegas homeowners while they tried to make one of the biggest purchasing decisions of their lives — and most of them had no idea what to ask.

That is not their fault. Most people buy a new HVAC system once, maybe twice, in their entire lives. They do not know what a Manual J load calculation is or what should be included in a quote or the difference between a manufacturer warranty and an installer warranty. Why would they? They are not in the HVAC business. I am.

So here is what I am going to do: I am going to give you every question I would want my own mother to ask before she talked to any HVAC company. Even if that company is not ours. I will tell you what the right answers sound like, what the wrong answers sound like, and exactly which responses should make you walk away.

Some of my competitors will be annoyed I published this. Good. The companies that do excellent work will welcome informed buyers. The ones that cut corners and pressure homeowners into fast decisions — they should be nervous.

Your AC is your lifeline. The system you buy today will run for 15 to 20 years, affecting your energy bills, indoor air quality, home value, and your family's safety during the most extreme heat in the continental United States. That decision deserves 17 questions. At minimum.

Print this list. Take it with you. Do not apologize for being thorough.

Question 1: Did You Perform a Manual J Load Calculation?

This is the single most important technical question you can ask. A Manual J load calculation determines what size HVAC system your home actually needs — not what size you had before, not what "most houses this size" use, but what YOUR home requires based on square footage, insulation, windows, orientation, ceiling height, duct configuration, and dozens of other factors calibrated to Las Vegas climate data.

Why it matters: An oversized system short-cycles — turning on and off rapidly — which creates uneven temperatures, wears out the compressor prematurely, and increases energy bills. An undersized system runs nonstop on the hottest days without reaching setpoint, working itself to death years early. In Las Vegas, where heat loads are among the most extreme in the country, the margin for error is narrow and the penalty for getting it wrong is high.

What the right answer sounds like: "Yes, we perform a Manual J on every installation. Let me walk you through the results. Your home requires a [X]-ton system because of [specific factors]." The contractor should show you the calculation — a printed report or software output referencing your home's specific characteristics.

Red flags: "You have a 3-ton now, so we will put in a 3-ton." They did not perform a calculation — they are assuming your previous system was correctly sized, which it may not have been. "Your house is 2,000 square feet, so you need a 4-ton." This is a rule of thumb, not a calculation. In Las Vegas, two identical 2,000-square-foot homes on the same street can need significantly different systems depending on orientation, west-facing windows, and attic insulation condition.

Question 2: What Specific Equipment Are You Recommending, and Why?

You deserve to know exactly what is going into your home — actual model numbers for every component: the outdoor condensing unit, the indoor air handler or furnace, the coil, and the thermostat. Not "a Lennox" or "a Carrier."

Why it matters: Saying "we install Lennox" is like saying "we sell Toyotas" — that could be a Corolla or a Land Cruiser. The model number tells you the efficiency tier, the technology level (single-stage, two-stage, or variable-speed), and whether components are properly matched. If the contractor recommends the same system to every homeowner, they are selling inventory, not solving problems.

What the right answer sounds like: "I am recommending the [specific model] condenser paired with the [specific model] air handler. This is a [SEER rating] system. I chose this combination because [reason tied to your situation — budget, home size, duct condition, efficiency goals]."

Red flags: Vague answers like "whatever's on the truck" or "our standard package." If the answer to "why this system?" is "because it's what we carry" rather than something specific to your home, keep asking.

Question 3: What Is the Total Installed Price — Everything Included?

Hidden costs are the number one complaint in HVAC. A quote that says "$7,500 for a new AC" could mean $7,500 out the door — or $7,500 plus $800 labor plus $350 permit plus $200 thermostat plus $150 disposal plus $600 line set plus tax.

Why it matters: The same number means very different things depending on what is and is not included. You need a written, itemized quote breaking down: equipment, installation labor, materials (copper line set, drain line, electrical, refrigerant), permit fee, old equipment removal, system startup and commissioning, sales tax, and total price. No surprises on installation day. No change orders after work starts.

Red flags: Verbal-only quotes — if it is not written down, it does not exist. "Ballpark" pricing — if they performed a Manual J and selected specific equipment, they can give you a precise number. Quotes that do not mention permits, disposal, or materials — if those items are not listed, assume they are not included.

Question 4: Will You Pull a Permit for This Installation?

This is not optional. It is the law.

Why it matters: Clark County and every city within it require building permits for HVAC installations. The permit triggers a city inspection — an independent verification that the work was done safely and to code. That inspection catches problems you would never notice: incorrect electrical connections, improper refrigerant line sizing, combustion safety issues on furnaces. Without a permit, nobody checks the work.

What the right answer sounds like: "Yes. The permit fee is included in your quote. We will schedule the city inspection after installation."

Red flags: "We don't need a permit for a changeout" — false. Even a like-for-like replacement requires a mechanical permit in Clark County. "It's optional" — it is not. "It will add $300 and two weeks" — the cost is typically $100 to $250 and does not meaningfully delay a well-planned installation.

The real risk: If unpermitted work causes damage, your homeowner's insurance may deny the claim. When you sell, a home inspector will flag it and the buyer will demand a discount or walk away. The manufacturer's warranty may be voided. A $200 permit protects you from tens of thousands in consequences.

Question 5: What Does Your Warranty Actually Cover?

"We guarantee our work" is not a warranty. It is a sentence. Warranties have specifics, and those specifics matter.

Why it matters: There are three distinct layers most homeowners do not realize are separate. Manufacturer parts warranty covers defective components (compressor, coil, heat exchanger) — typically 5 to 10 years, requires registration within 60 to 90 days, and does NOT cover labor. Installer labor warranty covers labor if something fails due to an installation defect — varies from 1 year to 10 years, and this is where quality companies differentiate themselves. Extended warranty is optional purchased coverage beyond base warranties.

What the right answer sounds like: "The manufacturer provides a 10-year parts warranty, which we will register for you. Our company provides a [X]-year labor warranty. Here is exactly what is and is not covered, in writing."

Red flags: "Lifetime warranty" with no documentation — whose lifetime? What parts? What exclusions? "Just call the manufacturer" — when a part fails, the manufacturer sends the part, but who pays the $500 to $800 labor to install it? No mention of warranty registration — if registration is missed, coverage often drops from 10 years to 5. A quality company handles this automatically.

Question 6: What Is Your Company's Experience in Las Vegas Specifically?

HVAC is a local business. A company's general experience matters far less than their specific experience in your market.

Why it matters: Las Vegas is not Phoenix or Tucson. Our extreme dry heat affects sizing and maintenance differently than humid climates. Our construction is unique — stucco and tile roofs that radiate heat, attics reaching 150 degrees, concrete slabs that store thermal energy. Our desert dust destroys condenser coils and clogs filters faster than almost anywhere. A company that has installed thousands of systems in Las Vegas homes knows how to account for these factors. A national franchise operating from a playbook written for a different climate may not.

What the right answer sounds like: "We have served Las Vegas homeowners for [X] years with [X] installations. We know local building codes, common construction types, and desert climate challenges."

Red flags: "We serve the whole Southwest" without specific Las Vegas presence, history, or references.

Question 7: Can I See Your License, Bond, and Insurance?

This is not rude. This is responsible.

Why it matters: Nevada requires HVAC contractors to hold a valid license from the Nevada State Contractors Board (NSCB), confirming they have passed trade exams, carry required insurance, and maintain a surety bond that protects you if they fail to complete work or cause damage.

What the right answer sounds like: "Absolutely. Our NSCB license number is [X]. You can verify it at NSCB.Nevada.gov. We carry general liability and workers' comp. Here are our certificates." At The Cooling Company, we print our license number on every proposal because we want you to check.

Red flags: Hesitation. Excuses. "It's at the office." If they cannot produce a license number on the spot, either they are not licensed, their license has lapsed, or they have complaints they would rather you not see.

How to verify: Visit NSCB.Nevada.gov. Check that the license is active, the classification includes C-21 (refrigeration and air conditioning), and review the complaint history. Five minutes of research could save you from a catastrophic hiring decision.

Question 8: Who Will Actually Be Doing the Installation?

The person giving you a quote is often not the person who will be on your roof. Find out who is.

Why it matters: When a company uses its own employees, those installers are trained to the company's standards and directly accountable. When they hire a subcontractor for Tuesday's job, quality control is murkier. Neither is automatically disqualifying — but you deserve to know.

What the right answer sounds like: "Our own trained teams do every job. Your lead installer will be [Name]." Or: "We use vetted subcontractors we have worked with for [X] years. They install to our specifications and we inspect every job."

Red flags: "Whoever is available that day" — no consistent crew, no quality standards, no accountability. Unwillingness to tell you who will be working in your home for 6 to 8 hours.

Question 9: What Happens to My Old Equipment?

Your old system contains refrigerant, metals, and potentially hazardous materials. Its disposal is federally regulated.

Why it matters: EPA regulations require that refrigerant be recovered by a certified technician before disposal. Venting refrigerant is illegal. Equipment should be properly recycled at a licensed facility.

What the right answer sounds like: "We remove all old equipment, recover refrigerant per EPA Section 608 regulations, and transport it to a certified recycling facility. Removal and disposal are included in your quote."

Red flags: "We will leave it in the side yard for you." No mention of refrigerant recovery. Disposal listed as an add-on that was not in the original quote — this should be standard on every replacement job.

Question 10: Have You Inspected My Ductwork?

A new system connected to old, leaky ductwork is like buying a sports car and putting bald tires on it.

Why it matters: Studies show that 25 to 40% of conditioned air in a typical home is lost through duct leaks and poor insulation — especially in Las Vegas attics that reach 150 degrees. If your ducts leak 30% of the air into the attic, you are getting 70 cents of performance for every dollar you spent on that new system. A proper ductwork assessment before installation identifies these losses so your new system actually delivers what you paid for.

What the right answer sounds like: "Before I finalize the recommendation, I need to evaluate your duct system for leaks, insulation condition, sizing, and routing. If your ducts need work, I will include that in the proposal."

Red flags: "Your ducts are fine" — said from the living room without going into the attic. No mention of ductwork at all — if a contractor quotes a full replacement without discussing the system that delivers the air, they are ignoring a critical component.

Question 11: What SEER Rating Are You Recommending, and Why?

SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) measures how efficiently an AC converts electricity into cooling. Higher SEER means lower bills but a higher purchase price. The question is not "what is the highest?" — it is "what is the right SEER for my situation?"

Why it matters: In Las Vegas, your AC runs 2,500 to 3,500 hours per year — far more than the national average. The efficiency difference between a 14 SEER and a 20 SEER translates into substantial dollar amounts on your NV Energy bill every month for 15 to 20 years. Higher SEER pays back faster here than almost anywhere. But a 20 SEER variable-speed system in a small condo may not pay back the premium versus a 16 SEER two-stage. The right recommendation depends on your home, budget, and how long you plan to stay. For a deeper comparison, see our guide on single-stage, two-stage, and variable-speed systems.

What the right answer sounds like: "Based on your home's size and energy costs, I recommend a [X] SEER system. The savings will pay back the additional cost in approximately [X] years. I can show you the numbers for a 16, 18, and 20 SEER side by side."

Red flags: "Just go with the 14 SEER — it's the cheapest." The cheapest to buy is the most expensive to operate over 15 years. "You need the 24 SEER top-of-the-line." The opposite problem — upselling without demonstrating payback. The recommendation should come with math, not pressure.

Question 12: How Long Will the Installation Take?

This question reveals more about thoroughness than most homeowners realize.

Why it matters: A quality installation requires careful removal, precise mounting, correct refrigerant connections, electrical work, condensate drainage, thermostat programming, startup, and commissioning. Cutting steps short creates problems you pay for later.

What the right answer sounds like: "A standard replacement takes 6 to 8 hours — one full day. If we are replacing ductwork, two days. We will confirm the timeline before we start."

Red flags: "A couple hours." Two hours is not an installation — it is a parts swap. They are not pulling a vacuum on refrigerant lines, not leak-testing, not commissioning. No timeline at all means they have not thought through the scope or plan to rush.

Question 13: What Financing Options Do You Offer?

A properly sized and installed system typically costs $8,000 to $18,000. Good financing makes the right system accessible without forcing you to compromise on quality.

What the right answer sounds like: "We offer several options: 0% APR for [X] months, a low-rate extended-term option, and no prepayment penalties. I can show you the monthly payment for each."

Red flags: Only one financing option at 18% APR — designed to generate revenue for the lender, not to help you. "No credit check" financing with extremely high rates targeting homeowners who feel they have no options. Pressure to finance when you want to pay cash — the contractor may be earning a dealer fee.

Question 14: What Is Your Service Response Time if Something Goes Wrong?

The installation is one day. Your relationship with this company is 15 to 20 years.

Why it matters: Even perfectly installed systems need occasional service. What matters is how quickly the company responds — especially in a Las Vegas summer when a day without AC is a health risk.

What the right answer sounds like: "We have a dedicated service department. Installation customers get priority scheduling with a [X]-hour response time. We staff a 24/7 emergency line at (702) 567-0707. Comfort Club members get priority scheduling and discounted diagnostic fees."

Red flags: "Call the manufacturer" — they did not install your system and will not send someone to your house. "We will get to you when we can" — in July, that could be two weeks. No emergency contact at all — think about what that means at 9 PM on a Saturday in August.

Question 15: Can I Speak with Recent Customers?

Online reviews are valuable but curated. A direct conversation with a recent customer gives you something Google cannot — the chance to ask your own questions and hear unscripted answers.

What the right answer sounds like: "Absolutely. I can connect you with three homeowners in your area who had similar installations within the last few months."

Red flags: "Just check our Google reviews" — deflection, not a reference. "We have a list on our website" — website testimonials are the least reliable form of social proof. Ask for real people you can actually speak with.

Question 16: What Is NOT Included in This Quote?

This catches what all the other questions miss — it often reveals costs the contractor hoped you would not notice until after signing.

Why it matters: Legitimate items sometimes cannot be confirmed until work begins — an electrical panel upgrade, a cracked concrete pad, duct modifications. A quality contractor identifies these possibilities upfront.

What the right answer sounds like: "This quote covers everything we discussed. Items that could add cost depending on what we find include: [specific list]. If any arise, we will stop and get your approval before proceeding. Nothing additional without your consent."

Red flags: "Everything is included" — almost never true. There are always potential variables. A contractor who claims otherwise is either padding the price or planning change orders. A defensive response to this question tells you everything about how they handle transparency.

Question 17: What Happens if I Am Not Satisfied After Installation?

This tells you everything about a company's confidence in their own work.

Why it matters: Even with the best equipment and installation, issues occasionally arise — a room that is not as cool as expected, unexpected noise, a confusing thermostat. The question is not whether problems can occur — it is what happens when they do.

What the right answer sounds like: "We stand behind every installation. If you are not satisfied, we come back at no charge to investigate and resolve the issue. Here is our written satisfaction guarantee." At The Cooling Company, we do not consider a job finished until you tell us you are comfortable. Any quality company should make a similar commitment.

Red flags: "All sales are final" — the language of a company that does not expect you to be satisfied. No satisfaction guarantee at all — you become an inconvenience, not a customer. "Contact the manufacturer" — the manufacturer did not install your system. A quality contractor handles both installation issues and manufacturer defects because they care about the outcome, not just the transaction.

Green Flags vs. Red Flags: The Complete Summary

Green Flags (Signs of Quality)	Red Flags (Warning Signs)
Performs a Manual J load calculation	Sizes by square footage or "matching what you had"
Provides specific model numbers with reasons	Vague equipment descriptions or "whatever is on the truck"
Written, itemized quote with total price	Verbal quotes, "ballpark" numbers, or missing line items
Pulls permits and schedules inspections	Says permits are optional or unnecessary
Explains manufacturer and labor warranty separately	Vague "lifetime" or "guaranteed" claims without documentation
Years of Las Vegas-specific experience	Generic "Southwest" or national presence with no local depth
Readily provides license, insurance, and bond info	Hesitation or excuses about credentials
Uses their own trained installation crews	"Whoever is available" or unnamed subcontractors
Includes equipment removal and EPA-compliant disposal	Leaves old equipment for you or does not mention refrigerant recovery
Inspects ductwork before finalizing the proposal	Ignores ductwork or says "it's fine" without looking
SEER recommendation tied to your home and payback analysis	Pushes cheapest or most expensive without explanation
Clear installation timeline (6-8 hours typical)	"A couple hours" or no timeline commitment
Multiple financing options with transparent terms	One high-interest option or pressure to finance
Specific service response time commitment	"Call the manufacturer" or "we'll get to you when we can"
Willing to connect you with recent customers	Deflects to online reviews or refuses direct references
Transparent about what is NOT included	"Everything is included" or defensive about exclusions
Written satisfaction guarantee with clear terms	"All sales are final" or no resolution process

How to Use This List

Print it. Take it with you. Ask every question to every contractor. Then compare not just prices, but the quality of the answers.

Get at least three quotes, and schedule them during spring (March through May) when you have time to be thorough instead of desperate.

1. Contact three licensed HVAC companies and schedule in-home consultations.
2. Ask all 17 questions to each one. Take notes.
3. Compare the answers side by side — not just price, but substance.
4. Verify each company's license at NSCB.Nevada.gov.
5. Call at least one reference from your top choice.
6. Review written proposals carefully before signing.
7. Never let anyone pressure you into signing on the first visit.

That last point is critical. "Sign today or the price goes up" is a sales tactic, not a genuine deadline. Equipment prices do not change between Tuesday and Thursday. A real quote is valid for at least 30 days. Walk away from anyone who tells you otherwise.

To see how The Cooling Company handles every one of these questions, call us at (702) 567-0707 or visit our about page. For a broader look at the entire replacement process, see our complete home comfort upgrade guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many quotes should I get before buying a new HVAC system?

Three is the practical minimum. Fewer gives you no basis for comparison. More than four creates diminishing returns. Three quotes from licensed, reputable companies let you identify fair pricing, spot outliers, and evaluate which contractor communicates most thoroughly. Schedule all three within a two-week window so you are comparing current pricing and availability.

Should I always go with the cheapest HVAC quote?

No. The cheapest quote is often the most expensive decision long-term. A low price can indicate cut corners — no Manual J, no permit, subcontracted labor, minimal warranty. A $9,000 quote that includes a permit, a 10-year labor warranty, and a duct inspection is better value than a $7,000 quote covering only the equipment swap. Look at total cost of ownership over 15 years, not just purchase price. Our 2026 pricing guide breaks down what drives the cost of a new system in Las Vegas.

How do I verify an HVAC contractor's license in Nevada?

Visit NSCB.Nevada.gov and search by company name or license number. Verify the license is active, includes the C-21 classification (refrigeration and air conditioning), and review the complaint history. Five minutes of research. If you find multiple complaints, disciplinary actions, or cannot find the license at all, that is your answer.

What is a Manual J load calculation?

A Manual J is the industry-standard engineering calculation that determines how much cooling capacity your specific home requires. It accounts for square footage, ceiling height, insulation, windows, air infiltration, occupants, duct condition, and local climate data. The output tells the contractor exactly what size system your home needs. Without one, the contractor is guessing — and in Las Vegas, guessing leads to oversized or undersized systems that cost you money for their entire lifespan.

Should I buy my own AC equipment and have someone install it?

Almost always a bad idea. The manufacturer warranty typically requires purchase and installation by an authorized dealer — buy it yourself and the warranty may be void. Proper equipment selection requires matching the condenser, coil, and air handler; mismatched components reduce efficiency and shorten system life. You lose any labor warranty. And contractors typically offer better equipment pricing than retail through dealer relationships. The perceived savings almost never materialize.

Is a more expensive HVAC system always better?

Not automatically. Higher-priced systems deliver real benefits — lower bills, more even temperatures, quieter operation. But whether those benefits justify the premium depends on your situation. A 24 SEER variable-speed system in a 1,200-square-foot condo may never pay back the premium over a 16 SEER two-stage. In a 3,500-square-foot home running 3,000+ hours per year, it may pay for itself in five to seven years. The right system matches your home, your priorities, and your budget. For a detailed comparison, read our guide on single-stage, two-stage, and variable-speed AC systems.

How do I know if an HVAC company is trustworthy?

Trustworthiness is demonstrated, not claimed. These 17 questions are designed to test for it. A trustworthy company performs proper load calculations instead of guessing, provides detailed written quotes instead of verbal ballparks, pulls permits instead of skipping them, shows credentials instead of making excuses, welcomes questions instead of rushing you, and stands behind their work with a written guarantee. Trust is not a feeling — it is a pattern of verifiable actions.

The Bottom Line

A new HVAC system is one of the most significant investments you will make in your home. In Las Vegas, it is also one of the most consequential — because your AC is not a luxury. It is essential infrastructure that protects your family's health and comfort during months of extreme heat.

These 17 questions give you the tools to make that investment wisely. They level the playing field between you and the contractors you are evaluating. They separate the companies that do excellent work from the companies that do just enough to collect a check.

You do not need to be an HVAC expert to make a smart buying decision. You just need the right questions.

If you would like to see what it looks like when a company is ready to answer all 17 — openly, thoroughly, and without flinching — call The Cooling Company at (702) 567-0707, get a quote online, or book an in-home consultation. We will bring our license, our references, our Manual J software, and our written proposal. Bring your questions.

Share This Page

• Share on Facebook
• Share on X
• Share on LinkedIn
• Share by Email