Winter HVAC Prep Checklist for Las Vegas Homeowners

Most of our customers are surprised when we tell them Las Vegas winters can be rough on HVAC equipment. They picture the Strip in July and assume heat is the only story. But December nights in the Valley regularly drop into the 30s°F, and January cold snaps can push below freezing. The difference from Phoenix or Tucson isn't just temperature — it's the extended idle period. Your gas furnace likely hasn't fired a single heating cycle since late February or early March. Six-plus months of sitting in an attic that hits 150°F in summer means components get stressed, dust accumulates on burners, and small problems that would have been caught during the last heating season go unnoticed until the first cold night. That's when we get the emergency calls. The good news: a straightforward prep checklist done in October prevents almost all of that. Here's exactly what we recommend — and what we do ourselves on our own homes.

1. Schedule a Professional Furnace Tune-Up

This is the non-negotiable item on the list. A professional furnace tune-up runs $89–$150 in Las Vegas and covers everything a homeowner can't safely check alone: combustion analysis, heat exchanger inspection, burner cleaning, ignition system test, gas pressure verification, and flue inspection. Why does it matter more here than in, say, Denver? Because your furnace sat in a 150°F attic all summer. Attic installs are standard in Southern Nevada, and that heat accelerates wear on control boards, inducer motors, and capacitors. When a technician opens up a Vegas furnace in October, they often find components that look like they've been through twice the cycles a same-age furnace in a cooler climate would show. What a tune-up catches before it becomes a $500–$2,000+ repair:

• Cracked heat exchangers — A crack lets combustion gases including carbon monoxide leak into your living space. Invisible to homeowners, caught easily with combustion analysis. Replacement costs $800–$1,500+ depending on the unit.
• Failing ignition systems — Hot surface igniters degrade with heat cycling. A furnace that won't light on the first cold night of December is often a $150–$300 repair if caught early. An emergency call on a Saturday night in January costs more.
• Dirty burners — Desert dust and monsoon particulates build up on burners over the summer. Dirty burners cause delayed ignition (that alarming "thump" when the furnace starts) and incomplete combustion.
• Blocked or damaged flue venting — Birds and rodents love exhaust vents in the off-season. A blocked flue is a carbon monoxide risk.

If you're enrolled in a maintenance plan, your fall furnace tune-up is already included. If not, call us in September or early October — our schedule fills up fast once the first cold front arrives.

2. Change the Air Filter

A clean filter is the single best thing you can do yourself. In Las Vegas, we recommend changing your filter every 30–60 days during active heating and cooling seasons, not the 90-day interval printed on most filter packaging. Here's why: monsoon season (July–September) kicks enormous amounts of fine desert dust into the atmosphere. That dust loads up filters faster than anywhere in the country, and a filter that's only 45 days old in October can already be significantly restricted. What to buy:

• MERV 8–11 for most homes — catches pollen, dust mites, and fine particles without over-restricting airflow on typical residential systems.
• MERV 13+ only if your system can handle it — higher-MERV filters have more resistance. On older equipment, a high-MERV filter can cause the heat exchanger to overheat. Check your system manual or ask a tech.
• Cost: $15–$40 per filter depending on size and MERV rating. A fiberglass one-inch filter for $2 is false economy — it barely catches anything.

How to change it:

1. Turn the furnace off at the switch or breaker.
2. Locate the filter slot — usually at the return air grille or the blower compartment door.
3. Note the size printed on the existing filter's frame.
4. Slide out the old filter and slide in the new one with the airflow arrow pointing toward the furnace.
5. Write the date on the filter edge with a marker and set a phone reminder for the next change.

If your filter is gray and clogged after only four to six weeks, that's a signal to investigate your duct system. Heavily loaded filters in short cycles usually mean air is bypassing your return grille somewhere, pulling unfiltered air — and attic dust — directly into your system.

3. Test Your Thermostat and Set It for Winter

Before the first cold night arrives, do a manual test. Set your thermostat to "heat" and raise the setpoint five degrees above current room temperature. Your furnace should respond within a few minutes — you'll hear the ignition sequence, then feel warm air at the registers. If nothing happens within five minutes, or you hear repeated clicking with no ignition, call a technician. Thermostat settings for Las Vegas winter:

• 68°F while home — the Energy Star recommended winter setpoint. Comfortable for most people, and for a desert climate where you're not fighting sub-zero outside temps, it's plenty warm.
• 62–65°F while away or asleep — no need to heat an empty house to 70°F. A programmable or smart thermostat handles this automatically and can cut heating costs 10–15%.
• Replace batteries — if your thermostat runs on batteries, change them now. A dead thermostat battery is a surprisingly common reason for a "furnace failure" call in winter.

If you have a smart thermostat, verify your schedule reflects your actual winter routine. Confirm it's still connected to Wi-Fi and that the app shows the correct mode. If you don't have a programmable thermostat yet, it's the single easiest upgrade to improve heating efficiency — basic models run $25–$50, and smart thermostats that learn your schedule start around $120–$250.

4. Clean the Outdoor Unit After Monsoon Season

Most Las Vegas homeowners think the outdoor unit (condenser) is only relevant in cooling season. But the dust, debris, and buildup from monsoon season directly affects how well your system starts up in heating mode — especially if you have a heat pump rather than a split gas/AC system. Even for straight gas furnace homes, the outdoor AC condenser sits idle all winter but needs to be clean and clear for when you transition back to cooling in March. Starting spring with a clogged condenser costs you efficiency from day one. Post-monsoon outdoor unit cleanup:

• Clear debris — Remove leaves, seed pods, dirt, and anything that's blown against or into the unit during summer storms. Keep two feet of clearance on all sides.
• Rinse the coil fins — Use a garden hose on low pressure to rinse from the inside out if you can access the inside, or spray down the outside fins to push loose debris through. Do not use a pressure washer — it bends the delicate aluminum fins.
• Check for bent fins — Monsoon-driven debris can dent coil fins. A fin comb ($10–$15 at any hardware store) straightens them. Severely bent sections need a technician.
• Inspect the refrigerant lines — The insulated copper lines running into the house should have intact insulation. Cracked or missing insulation is a common finding after an active monsoon season and leads to energy loss and potential moisture intrusion.

If you notice oily residue around the refrigerant line connections, that's a sign of a refrigerant leak. Get it checked before heating season so it doesn't become an emergency in spring.

5. Inspect Ductwork and Seal Air Leaks

Las Vegas homes lose a significant amount of heated and cooled air through leaky ductwork — industry estimates put the average at 20–30% duct loss for existing homes. That's money leaving your house before the air ever reaches your living room. What to look for yourself:

• Disconnected joints — In attic-mounted duct systems, connections can work loose over time, especially after summer heat expansion. Check accessible runs for gaps where sections have separated.
• Torn duct insulation — Duct insulation in hot attics degrades faster than anywhere else. If you can access the attic, look for sections where insulation has fallen off or deteriorated. Uninsulated attic ducts in a Las Vegas August add real dollars to your cooling bill.
• Weak airflow at registers — Walk room to room with your hand near each supply register when the furnace is running. Significant variation between rooms often points to a duct leak between the air handler and that section of the house.

For sealing joints yourself, use mastic sealant (not standard duct tape — it fails with heat cycling) or foil-faced tape rated for HVAC use. Anything more than minor accessible repairs is worth a professional duct inspection and cleaning. A full duct cleaning runs $300–$600 and is worth doing every 5–10 years, or after any major renovation that generated significant dust. Weatherstripping deserves its own mention here. Las Vegas UV exposure is intense, and weatherstripping around exterior doors and windows degrades faster here than in almost any other market. Run your hand along door frames and window frames on a windy day — any draft you feel is conditioned air escaping and outdoor air infiltrating. Replacement weatherstripping is $10–$30 per door and takes 30 minutes to install.

6. Flush Your Water Heater and Check Anode Rod

Winter prep isn't only about the heating system. Las Vegas has notoriously hard water — mineral content here averages 250–400+ parts per million, among the hardest municipal water supplies in the country. That calcium and magnesium scale builds up inside water heaters, settling on the tank bottom and around the heating elements. The symptoms of scale buildup:

• Rumbling or popping sounds when the water heater runs (sediment heating up and expanding)
• Longer recovery times — the tank takes more time to reheat after use
• Higher gas or electric bills as the heating element fights through an inch of insulating scale
• Shorter equipment life — scale-clogged tanks fail years earlier than properly maintained ones

Annual flushing removes sediment before it hardens into a solid layer. If the water draining from the drain valve is heavily cloudy or has visible grit, the tank was overdue. Flushing costs nothing if you do it yourself; a plumber visit runs $80–$150. Check the anode rod at the same time. The sacrificial anode rod is what prevents the steel tank from corroding, and in Las Vegas hard water it gets consumed faster than in soft-water cities. A depleted rod leads to a rusting tank and early failure. Replacement rods cost $20–$40, and if you haven't replaced yours in four to five years, it's worth pulling it out to inspect. If your water heater is 10 years or older and you're seeing these symptoms, a water heater inspection before winter — when demand spikes — is a smart move.

7. Test Carbon Monoxide Detectors and Check Gas Connections

Carbon monoxide (CO) is produced by any combustion appliance — gas furnaces, gas water heaters, gas stoves, and fireplaces. The risk rises in winter when homes are sealed tighter and combustion appliances run more. In Las Vegas, the specific concern is furnaces that have sat idle for six months: accumulated dust on burners and any venting issues that developed over the off-season can cause incomplete combustion. Carbon monoxide detector requirements:

• At least one detector on every occupied level of the home
• One outside each sleeping area — CO exposure during sleep is the most dangerous scenario because it can incapacitate before you wake
• Replace detectors every five to seven years — the sensors degrade and older units may not alarm reliably at low but dangerous CO concentrations
• Test every detector monthly by pressing the test button
• Change batteries when you change your clocks, or use 10-year sealed-battery units

If your CO detector alarms: get everyone out immediately, leave the door open, and call 911 from outside. Do not re-enter until first responders clear the home. Gas line connections should be inspected visually for any sign of corrosion at fittings, particularly around flexible gas connectors that can degrade over time. If you smell sulfur (rotten egg odor) anywhere near gas appliances, leave the home immediately and call your gas company and 911. Do not use any electrical switches. For the furnace specifically: the annual tune-up mentioned in section one includes combustion analysis and CO measurement at the flue — the only way to confirm the heat exchanger isn't leaking combustion gases into the airstream.

Build These Tasks Into Your Annual Calendar

The simplest way to make sure winter prep actually happens: put it in your calendar right now. Here's the annual schedule we recommend for Las Vegas homeowners:

• September–October: Furnace tune-up, air filter change, thermostat test, CO detector test, outdoor unit cleaning, water heater flush
• November–February: Filter check every 30–45 days, monitor for any unusual smells or noises on furnace startup
• March–April: AC tune-up before cooling season, outdoor condenser inspection, thermostat switch to cooling mode
• July–August: Post-monsoon outdoor unit check, filter inspection (may need mid-season replacement)

If that sounds like a lot to manage, a maintenance plan handles the scheduling for you. Our plans include two seasonal tune-ups per year, priority scheduling, and reduced rates on parts and labor — which means you're covered on both the heating and cooling sides without having to remember to call. The bottom line: Las Vegas winters are forgiving compared to most of the country, but that six-month idle period is the variable that makes winter prep non-negotiable. A $100 tune-up now is cheap insurance against a $1,500 heat exchanger repair or a $3,000 emergency system replacement when you need heat the most. At The Cooling Company, we've been handling Las Vegas heating and cooling since 2011. Our licensed technicians know what desert heat does to attic-mounted equipment and exactly what to look for in October to make sure your system runs clean all winter. Call us at (702) 567-0707 to schedule your winter HVAC prep.

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