Short answer: A standard home inspection includes only 10-15 minutes on the HVAC system and misses most of the issues that lead to $3,000-$15,000 surprise repairs after closing. An independent HVAC inspection ($150-$300) covers system age, refrigerant type and charge, ductwork condition, electrical integrity, capacity vs. square footage, SEER efficiency, maintenance history, warranty status, and code compliance. In Las Vegas, where AC systems run 2,500-3,000 hours annually and fail 30-40% faster than the national average, this inspection is not optional — it's the difference between buying a home with a functioning comfort system and inheriting a $12,000 problem.
A couple bought a 2,800-square-foot home in Henderson last May. The home inspection checked out — "HVAC system operational, no visible issues" was the actual language in the report. They closed on May 14th. On May 19th, with the temperature hitting 104 degrees, they turned the AC on for the first time since the inspection.
The compressor didn't start.
The diagnosis: a seized scroll compressor with internal bearing failure. The system was a builder-grade Goodman unit installed in 2009, running on R-410A, with no maintenance records and a condenser coil so caked with desert dust that the fins had corroded through in patches. The repair estimate: $4,800 for a compressor replacement, plus $1,200 for a condenser coil replacement. Total: $6,000. Five days after closing. Five days after a home inspector said the system was "operational."
This story isn't unusual. We get calls like this three to five times every spring.
What a Standard Home Inspection Actually Checks on HVAC
Here's what most Las Vegas homebuyers don't realize: a general home inspector is a generalist. They're looking at the roof, foundation, electrical, plumbing, and HVAC — all in a single visit that typically lasts 2-3 hours. The HVAC portion gets 10-15 minutes.
During those 10-15 minutes, the inspector typically does the following:
- Turns the system on and verifies it starts
- Checks that air comes out of the vents
- Measures the temperature at a few supply registers
- Looks at the visible condition of the indoor and outdoor units
- Notes the approximate age based on the data plate
- Checks the filter condition
- Photographs the system for the report
That's it. And honestly, for the scope and price of a general home inspection ($300-$500), it's reasonable. They're not HVAC specialists — they're checking that the system turns on and produces conditioned air at the time of inspection.
What a general home inspection does NOT check:
- Refrigerant charge level (requires gauges and EPA certification)
- Ductwork condition (requires internal duct camera or pressure testing)
- Electrical component health (amp draw, capacitor values, contactor condition)
- Airflow balance room by room
- System capacity relative to the home's actual cooling load
- Efficiency at current operating conditions vs. rated efficiency
- Maintenance history and service records
- Warranty status and transferability
- Code compliance with current Clark County amendments
- Refrigerant type and its long-term availability
- Indoor coil condition (sealed inside the air handler)
- Drain line condition and routing
- Noise levels at normal operating conditions
- Insulation condition in the attic (directly affects HVAC performance)
Any one of these unchecked items can represent a $1,000-$15,000 problem that doesn't show up until you're living in the house.
The 15-Point Independent HVAC Inspection Checklist
This is the inspection you request from a licensed HVAC contractor — separate from your general home inspection. It costs $150-$300 and takes 60-90 minutes. In Las Vegas, it's the most valuable $200 you'll spend during the buying process.
1. System Age and Expected Remaining Life
What to check: The manufacture date on the data plate of both the indoor and outdoor units. In Las Vegas, AC systems have an average functional lifespan of 12-15 years — shorter than the 15-20 year national average because our systems accumulate 2,500-3,000 runtime hours per year versus 800-1,500 in milder climates.
Red flags:
- System is 10+ years old (you'll likely need AC replacement within 3-5 years)
- Indoor and outdoor units have different manufacture dates (suggests a partial replacement — check compatibility)
- Data plate is missing or unreadable (suggests the unit has been modified or is older than it appears)
What it means for your offer: A system at end of life should factor $8,000-$15,000 in replacement costs into your negotiation.
2. Refrigerant Type
What to check: The refrigerant type listed on the outdoor unit's data plate.
Why it matters in Las Vegas:
- R-22 (Freon): Phased out of production entirely. If the system runs on R-22, any leak repair requires purchasing reclaimed refrigerant at $75-$150+ per pound. A full charge can cost $600-$1,500 in refrigerant alone. Systems using R-22 are also 15+ years old — replacement is typically more economical than repair
- R-410A: Current standard, widely available, $50-$100 per pound. Being phased down starting in 2025 under AIM Act regulations, but will remain serviceable for the foreseeable future
- R-454B (emerging): Newer low-GWP refrigerant being adopted in 2025+ equipment. Not a concern for existing homes but relevant if the seller recently installed a new system
A home with an R-22 system should be treated as a home that needs a new AC system in your purchase calculations.
3. Refrigerant Charge Level
What to check: A technician connects a manifold gauge set to the service valves and measures suction and discharge pressures, then compares them to the manufacturer's specifications for current ambient conditions.
Why a general inspector skips this: EPA Section 608 certification is required to handle refrigerant. Most home inspectors don't hold this certification.
Red flags:
- Suction pressure significantly below spec (indicates low charge — likely a leak)
- Discharge pressure significantly above spec (restricted airflow, dirty condenser, or overcharge)
- Oil stains at refrigerant connections (indicates a chronic slow leak)
- Technician finds the system has been "topped off" repeatedly (someone's been masking a leak instead of fixing it)
4. Ductwork Condition
What to check: A thorough duct inspection includes visual examination of accessible sections, checking for disconnected or crushed flex duct, testing static pressure at the plenum, and ideally a duct leakage test.
Why this is critical in Las Vegas:
Las Vegas attic temperatures reach 150-170°F in summer. Ductwork running through that environment must be properly sealed and insulated — every leak dumps expensive conditioned air into the attic while simultaneously pulling 160°F air into the system. Studies show that the average Las Vegas home loses 20-30% of conditioned air through duct leaks. On a system producing $300/month in cooling, that's $60-$90/month wasted.
Red flags:
- Flex duct with torn or missing outer jacket
- Connections secured with tape only (no mastic or mechanical fasteners)
- Duct runs with kinks, compressions, or excessive length
- Supply registers in some rooms producing significantly weaker airflow
- Return air path is inadequate (common in builder-grade installations)
- Ductwork modifications made without permits (room additions, garage conversions)
Ductwork issues are among the most commonly overlooked problems in Las Vegas home purchases. Repairs range from $300-$1,500 for sealing and insulation to $3,000-$8,000 for partial or full replacement.
5. Electrical Integrity
What to check: Amp draw on the compressor and fan motors compared to nameplate ratings. Capacitor values tested with a meter. Contactor surface condition. Wire insulation integrity. Proper wire gauges for circuit breaker ratings. Disconnect switch condition.
Why it matters: Electrical components degrade faster in Las Vegas heat. A compressor drawing 15% above nameplate amps is working too hard — it may continue operating for weeks or months, passing a visual inspection, but it's on a countdown to failure.
Red flags:
- Compressor amp draw exceeding rated load amps (RLA) by more than 10%
- Capacitor testing more than 10% below rated microfarads
- Burned or pitted contactor surfaces
- Wiring insulation that's brittle, cracked, or discolored from heat
- Double-tapped breakers or improper wire gauge
6. Thermostat Assessment
What to check: Is the thermostat compatible with the installed system? Is it properly calibrated (comparing displayed temperature to an independent thermometer)? Does it control all system modes correctly (cool, heat, fan, auto)? For smart thermostats, is it configured for the correct system type?
Red flags:
- Thermostat temperature reads 3+ degrees different from a calibrated thermometer
- System is a heat pump but thermostat isn't configured for heat pump operation (common in Las Vegas where heat pumps are increasingly installed)
- Old mercury thermostat (indicates the system may not have been updated in decades)
- Smart thermostat installed on a system without a C-wire (causes intermittent power issues)
7. Air Handler and Indoor Coil
What to check: The air handler's blower motor operation (smooth, quiet, no vibration), drain pan condition (no rust, cracks, or standing water), evaporator coil condition (if accessible), filter rack integrity, and cabinet condition.
Why Las Vegas-specific: Our hard water (16-22 grains per gallon) accelerates corrosion on evaporator coil surfaces. The condensate from our humid monsoon season (July-September) is mineral-laden and promotes drain pan corrosion. Air handlers in attic installations face extreme heat stress on motors and wiring.
Red flags:
- Rust in the drain pan (eventual leak that causes ceiling/drywall damage)
- Visible corrosion or green patina on the evaporator coil
- Blower motor that vibrates, squeals, or cycles erratically
- Standing water in the drain pan (clogged drain line)
- Mold visible inside the cabinet or on the coil
8. Condensate Drain Lines
What to check: Primary and secondary drain line routing, trap condition, and flow. In Las Vegas, many homes have the air handler in the attic — a clogged drain line can flood the ceiling and cause thousands in water damage.
Red flags:
- No secondary drain line on attic-mounted units (code violation in Clark County)
- Primary drain line not dripping during operation (blocked)
- Drain lines routed to locations where overflow would cause interior damage
- No float switch or drain sensor to shut down the system if the pan fills
9. Insulation Assessment
What to check: Attic insulation depth and condition. In Las Vegas, attic insulation directly determines how hard the AC has to work. Building codes have evolved significantly — older homes may have half the insulation of current standards.
| Home Era | Typical Insulation | Current Code (2021 IECC) | Action Needed |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pre-1990 | R-19 to R-26 | R-49 | Major upgrade needed |
| 1990-2005 | R-30 to R-38 | R-49 | Moderate upgrade |
| 2005-2015 | R-38 | R-49 | Minor upgrade |
| 2015+ | R-49 | R-49 | Likely adequate |
Insufficient attic insulation forces the AC to run 20-40% longer, increasing energy costs by $40-$100/month during summer and accelerating equipment wear. Adding insulation costs $1,500-$3,500 and typically pays for itself within 2-3 Las Vegas summers.
10. Capacity vs. Square Footage
What to check: The system's tonnage (listed on the data plate) relative to the home's conditioned square footage, orientation, window area, and insulation level.
Las Vegas sizing rule of thumb: 1 ton per 400-500 square feet for well-insulated homes; 1 ton per 350-400 square feet for older homes with marginal insulation. A 2,000 sq ft home in Summerlin with good insulation needs approximately a 4-5 ton system. West-facing homes with large windows may need additional capacity.
Red flags:
- System is undersized (runs continuously but can't maintain temperature on the hottest days)
- System is oversized (short-cycles, doesn't dehumidify properly during monsoon, wears out faster). Builders in the 2003-2008 boom era frequently installed oversized systems because it was cheaper than doing a proper Manual J load calculation — bigger equipment costs marginally more but doesn't require an engineer's time
11. SEER Rating and Efficiency
What to check: The Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER or SEER2) listed on the data plate. Higher SEER means lower operating costs.
| SEER Rating | Era | Annual Cooling Cost (2,000 sq ft, Las Vegas) |
|---|---|---|
| 10 SEER | Pre-2006 | $1,800-$2,400 |
| 13 SEER | 2006-2014 | $1,400-$1,800 |
| 14 SEER | 2015-2022 | $1,200-$1,600 |
| 16 SEER | 2015+ (mid-range) | $1,000-$1,400 |
| 18+ SEER | Premium/variable-speed | $800-$1,200 |
A home with a 10 SEER system costs $600-$1,200 more per year to cool than a modern 16+ SEER unit. Over 10 years, that's $6,000-$12,000 in excess energy costs — a factor worth considering in your purchase price negotiation.
12. Maintenance History
What to check: Ask the seller for maintenance records — service invoices, maintenance agreement documentation, or receipts from HVAC companies. A system with documented annual HVAC maintenance has measurably longer life expectancy than a neglected one.
Red flags:
- No maintenance records at all (assume the system has been neglected)
- Records showing repeated repairs for the same issue (unresolved root cause)
- Evidence of DIY repairs (electrical tape on wiring, mismatched components)
- No filter change records (a system that was never regularly filtered has accelerated coil and blower degradation)
13. Warranty Status
What to check: Most AC manufacturers offer 5-10 year parts warranties — but only if the system was properly registered within 60-90 days of installation. Many builder installations are never registered, defaulting to a shorter warranty period. Ask the seller for the warranty registration confirmation.
Key questions:
- Was the equipment registered with the manufacturer? (Check online with the serial number)
- Is the warranty transferable to a new owner? (Most are, but some require a transfer fee or notification)
- Has any warranty work been performed? (If so, was it done by a licensed contractor? Unauthorized work can void remaining coverage)
- Is there a labor warranty from the installing contractor? (Separate from the manufacturer's parts warranty)
14. Code Compliance
What to check: Current Clark County mechanical code requirements for residential HVAC, including minimum efficiency standards, refrigerant line set routing, condensate drain requirements, electrical disconnect placement, and equipment clearances.
Common code violations we find in Las Vegas homes:
- No disconnect switch within sight of the outdoor unit (or a disconnect that doesn't actually interrupt power)
- Missing or improperly installed condensate drain safety switch on attic units
- Refrigerant line sets run through living space without proper fire-rated protection
- Equipment installed without a permit (no inspection record with Clark County)
- Undersized electrical service for the installed equipment
- Platform height violations for air handlers in garages (must be elevated 18 inches if gas appliances are present)
Code violations don't always mean the system doesn't work — but they can affect your ability to get insurance, sell the home later, or make warranty claims.
15. Noise Levels and Airflow Balance
What to check: Listen to the system during operation. Measure air temperature at every supply register. Note any rooms that feel significantly warmer or cooler than others.
What normal sounds like: A low, steady hum from the outdoor unit. A soft whoosh of air from vents. No rattling, buzzing, screeching, or clicking.
Red flags:
- Outdoor unit decibel level significantly higher than manufacturer spec (bearing wear, loose components)
- Temperature variation of more than 3 degrees between rooms on the same system
- Rooms that get little to no airflow (damper issues, duct disconnection, or design inadequacy)
- Vibration or rattling from the air handler (loose blower wheel, failing motor bearings)
- Whistling from vents (undersized ducts or restrictive filter rack)
Red Flags by Neighborhood Era
Las Vegas grew in distinct construction waves, and each era has characteristic HVAC issues that a buyer should anticipate.
Pre-2000 Homes (Downtown, Old Henderson, East Las Vegas, Spring Valley, Summerlin Phase 1)
Typical system age: 25+ years (original equipment is well past expected lifespan)
Common refrigerant: R-22 (production ceased, supply limited, expensive)
Typical ductwork: Early flex duct or sheet metal in unconditioned attics, often poorly sealed
Expected issues:
- Systems running on R-22 with no cost-effective repair path for major failures
- Original ductwork with 25+ years of dust accumulation, disconnected joints, and deteriorated insulation
- Undersized electrical panels that may not support modern high-efficiency equipment without an upgrade
- No secondary drain line on attic units (pre-code requirement)
Buyer action: Budget $10,000-$18,000 for complete HVAC replacement within 1-3 years if the original system is still installed. An AC installation quote should be part of your pre-purchase due diligence.
2000-2010 Homes (Southern Highlands, Mountains Edge, Aliante, Centennial Hills, North Las Vegas expansion)
Typical system age: 15-25 years (many at or past end of life)
Common refrigerant: R-410A (widely available)
Typical ductwork: Flex duct, generally better sealed than older homes but still prone to attic heat damage
Expected issues:
- Builder-grade equipment from the construction boom era (2003-2007) — these systems were installed at lowest cost, not highest quality
- Oversized systems from the boom era when builders skipped Manual J calculations
- Equipment at end of life but not yet failed — may pass a casual inspection but is on borrowed time
- Condensers with 15+ years of desert dust corrosion on coil fins
Buyer action: Request an independent HVAC inspection. If the system is 12+ years old, negotiate a credit for AC replacement or require the seller to install a new system before closing.
2010-2020 Homes (Inspirada, Cadence, Summerlin West, Skye Canyon)
Typical system age: 5-15 years (potentially still under manufacturer warranty)
Common refrigerant: R-410A
Typical ductwork: Flex duct per 2012+ energy code, generally better insulated
Expected issues:
- Verify warranty registration — many builder installations are never registered, reducing coverage from 10 years to 5
- Check for any warranty work that was performed by unlicensed individuals (voids remaining coverage)
- Systems in the 8-12 year range may need first major component replacement (capacitors, contactors, blower motors)
- Builder-installed thermostats may be basic models — verify compatibility with the system type (especially heat pumps)
Buyer action: Confirm warranty registration. Request maintenance records. Systems in this age range should have significant useful life remaining if they've been maintained.
2020-Present Homes (New construction, recent builds)
Typical system age: 0-5 years (under manufacturer warranty)
Common refrigerant: R-410A or newer R-454B
Typical ductwork: Per current energy code requirements
Expected issues:
- Minimal HVAC concerns for well-maintained recent builds
- Verify the system was installed with proper permits and inspections (some tract builders have been cited for skipping inspections during the post-pandemic construction surge)
- Ensure the outdoor unit has adequate clearance and isn't located where landscaping will eventually block airflow
- Check that the ductwork was pressure-tested per code
Buyer action: Verify permits, confirm warranty registration, and establish a maintenance plan from day one.
Your Pre-Purchase HVAC Inspection Printable Checklist
Use this checklist with your independent HVAC inspector. Print it, bring it to the inspection, and make sure every item gets checked.
System Identification:
- Indoor unit manufacturer, model, serial number, manufacture date
- Outdoor unit manufacturer, model, serial number, manufacture date
- System tonnage: ___ tons
- SEER rating: ___
- Refrigerant type: ___
Operational Tests:
- System starts and runs in cooling mode
- System starts and runs in heating mode
- Supply air temperature at register closest to air handler: ___°F
- Return air temperature: ___°F
- Temperature split (should be 15-22°F): ___°F
- All rooms receiving adequate airflow (checked individually)
Refrigerant and Coils:
- Suction pressure: ___ PSI (compared to manufacturer spec)
- Discharge pressure: ___ PSI (compared to manufacturer spec)
- Superheat reading: ___°F
- Subcooling reading: ___°F
- No oil stains at connections (indicates leaks)
- Condenser coil condition (fin damage, corrosion, debris)
- Evaporator coil condition (if accessible)
Electrical:
- Compressor amp draw: ___ amps (nameplate RLA: ___ amps)
- Condenser fan motor amp draw: ___ amps
- Blower motor amp draw: ___ amps
- Capacitor tested within 10% of rated value
- Contactor surface condition (no pitting or burns)
- All wiring insulation intact
- Proper disconnect at outdoor unit
Ductwork:
- Accessible duct sections visually inspected
- No visible disconnections or damage
- Insulation intact on all accessible duct runs
- Static pressure at plenum: ___ inches WC (should be under 0.5")
- No duct runs through unconditioned space without insulation
Drain and Safety:
- Primary drain line flowing
- Secondary drain line present (attic installations)
- Float switch or drain sensor installed and functional
- Drain pan in good condition (no rust, cracks, standing water)
Documentation:
- Warranty registration confirmed with manufacturer
- Maintenance records provided by seller
- Installation permit verified with Clark County
- Equipment manual available
What This Inspection Costs vs. What It Saves
An independent HVAC inspection runs $150-$300. Here's what it can prevent:
| Undiscovered Problem | Cost to Fix After Closing | Could Inspection Have Caught It? |
|---|---|---|
| Failed compressor | $1,500-$3,500 | Yes — amp draw test reveals stress |
| Refrigerant leak | $500-$2,500 | Yes — pressure test reveals low charge |
| Collapsed ductwork | $1,500-$4,000 | Yes — airflow testing reveals restriction |
| End-of-life system needing replacement | $8,000-$15,000 | Yes — age, condition, and efficiency analysis |
| Unregistered warranty (lost coverage) | $2,000-$5,000 in future parts costs | Yes — serial number verification |
| Code violations requiring remediation | $500-$3,000 | Yes — code compliance review |
| Oversized system (comfort and efficiency issues) | $8,000-$15,000 for proper replacement | Yes — Manual J load calculation comparison |
The most expensive HVAC inspection in Las Vegas is $300. The cheapest compressor replacement is $1,500. The math is straightforward.
How to Use This Information in Negotiations
If the HVAC inspection reveals significant issues, you have several options:
- Request a repair credit: Ask the seller to credit you the estimated repair cost at closing. This gives you control over who does the work and what equipment is installed
- Request the seller make repairs before closing: Risky — sellers tend to hire the cheapest contractor, and you have limited control over quality
- Request a price reduction: Appropriate when the system is functional but near end of life. A $10,000 reduction on a home with a 14-year-old system that will need replacement within 2-3 years is reasonable
- Walk away: If the HVAC issues are part of a pattern of deferred maintenance throughout the home, the HVAC problems may be the tip of the iceberg
Your real estate agent can advise on negotiation strategy, but having a detailed HVAC inspection report with specific repair costs gives you concrete numbers to negotiate with — not vague concerns.
Don't Close Without This Inspection
Your home inspector is doing their job — covering the entire house in a few hours. But 10 minutes on the HVAC system isn't enough to protect a purchase that's likely the largest financial decision you'll make. In Las Vegas, where the AC isn't a luxury but a life safety system six months out of the year, knowing exactly what you're buying before you sign is worth every dollar of that $150-$300 inspection fee.
The Cooling Company provides independent pre-purchase HVAC inspections throughout Las Vegas, Henderson, and North Las Vegas. We'll give you an honest assessment of the system's condition, remaining useful life, and any repairs or replacements you should anticipate — no pressure to hire us for the work. We just want you to know what you're buying.
Call (702) 567-0707 or book online to schedule your pre-purchase HVAC inspection before closing day.
Does a standard home inspection include a full HVAC evaluation?
No. A standard home inspection spends 10-15 minutes on HVAC — enough to verify the system turns on and produces conditioned air, but not enough to assess refrigerant levels, ductwork integrity, electrical component health, efficiency, or remaining useful life. An independent HVAC inspection by a licensed contractor ($150-$300) covers all 15 critical checkpoints that a general inspection misses, including pressure testing, amp draw analysis, and ductwork evaluation.
How much does an independent HVAC inspection cost in Las Vegas?
An independent HVAC inspection by a licensed contractor in Las Vegas typically costs $150-$300, depending on the size of the home and the number of systems. A single-system residential home is usually at the lower end. Homes with multiple systems (common in 3,000+ sq ft homes and two-story properties) may cost more. This fee covers a 60-90 minute comprehensive evaluation including refrigerant pressure testing, electrical diagnostics, ductwork inspection, and a detailed written report.
What's the biggest HVAC red flag when buying a Las Vegas home?
An R-22 refrigerant system. R-22 production has been completely phased out, making repairs prohibitively expensive — reclaimed R-22 costs $75-$150+ per pound, and a full system charge can run $600-$1,500 in refrigerant alone. Any home still running R-22 effectively needs a full system replacement ($8,000-$15,000), regardless of whether the system currently operates. Factor this into your offer price.
How long do AC systems last in Las Vegas compared to other cities?
AC systems in Las Vegas typically last 12-15 years, compared to the national average of 15-20 years. The shorter lifespan is due to extreme runtime hours (2,500-3,000 hours annually vs. 800-1,500 in milder climates), extreme ambient temperatures that stress all components, desert dust that accelerates wear on coils and motors, and hard water (16-22 grains per gallon) that corrodes evaporator coils and heat exchangers. A well-maintained system can reach 15 years; a neglected system may fail at 8-10.
Should I ask the seller to replace an old AC system before closing?
Requesting a closing credit rather than seller-performed replacement is usually the better strategy. When sellers replace equipment, they typically hire the cheapest contractor and install the minimum-spec system to satisfy the requirement. A credit gives you control over the contractor selection, equipment brand and efficiency level, and warranty registration. For a system that's functional but near end of life (10-14 years old), a credit of $5,000-$10,000 is a reasonable negotiating position supported by your HVAC inspection report.
What HVAC problems are most common in Las Vegas builder-grade homes?
The most common builder-grade HVAC issues in Las Vegas homes include oversized systems (builders install bigger rather than calculating actual load), minimal ductwork insulation (code minimum rather than optimal), unregistered warranties (cutting the installer's 10-year parts warranty to 5 years), and bottom-tier equipment (lowest SEER rating allowed by code at the time of construction). Homes built during the 2003-2007 boom are particularly affected, as the construction pace prioritized speed over quality.
Can I transfer the HVAC warranty when I buy a home?
Most major manufacturers (Carrier, Lennox, Trane, Goodman, Rheem) allow warranty transfers to new homeowners, but the process varies. Some require notification within 30-90 days of the property transfer and may charge a small transfer fee ($50-$100). The critical requirement is that the original warranty was registered — if the installer never registered the equipment, the warranty defaults to a shorter period (typically 5 years instead of 10 for parts). Ask the seller for the warranty registration confirmation and verify it with the manufacturer using the unit's serial number.
When should I schedule the HVAC inspection during the home buying process?
Schedule it during your inspection contingency period — typically 10-15 days after your offer is accepted. Ideally, book it the same week as your general home inspection so you have all findings before the contingency deadline. If the HVAC inspection reveals significant issues, you have time to negotiate repairs, credits, or price adjustments — or exercise your contingency and walk away. Do not wait until after contingencies expire, as you'll lose your leverage to negotiate or cancel based on HVAC findings.